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The Oracle. Every single design that her name was The Oracle. Every single design that her name was on, cane from her own hands. Mme. Gres. I had the ultimate honor to work for her backstage when she brought the couture in for a black tie gala for the charity, The Musicians Emergency Fund, organized by Mrs. Austine Hearst. I hid myself and slipped into the Pierre Hotel, like a church mouse. I first sat in the ballroom as people were entering watching—- with my mouth opened—- Mrs. Tatiana Leiberman in Gres taffeta and black velvet cape with train. She was also wearing white kid gloves to the elbows with diamonds and pearls at her wrists, throat, and a diamond and pearl tiara on her head. Mrs Mica Ertegun in serious Gres navy silk paper taffeta bombastic sleeves and ball gown with rubies. Mrs. Nan Kempner in fluted white Gres jersey taking probably three months to make. Mrs. Chessy Rayner in forest Green draped back blouson Racine jersey with a black velvet apron. ..... Mrs. Austine Hearst in sang de boeuf Gres Renaissance page taffeta with organza overlay and enormous gray pearls....... and it went on. I tore myself away from the pageant of entry to slide behind stage. I was fearful but at the same time knew that I was still acting as a gentleman with manners because I was following my destiny. So I found my way to a rack of clothes of unspeakable beauty and complexity. A cerise punk silk crepe asymmetric tunic with short in front end train in back over black fish net hose with black crystals dotting the cross sections. A look in oatmeal and ivory double faced cashmere... tunic, skirt, and cape with a turban and Woolf stole, and a finale gown of black paper silk taffeta with sheer tulle insets and at least 30 small covered buttons arranged along the bias going down the back curve of the gown. I remember shaking and sweating getting the girl into this dress..... the entire collection shown to Ravel’s Bolero.....little did I imagine that in Spring of 2012 I would decide upon this same music to reconnect me to this tbt memory. I was in the presence of an entity sent by God. She was Holy. Hubert de Givenchy have discussed this much, and he financially supported her, when I meet God, she will be there.
Mona Bismarck..... and I am not a fan, in her mind Mona Bismarck..... and I am not a fan, in her mind boggling hotel particular in Paris.... look at the Chinoiserie and the Canton Enamel Vessel. We all know what she did when the news was released that Cristobal Balenciaga was closing, but what I find incredible is that she decided that she would never make couture without anyone else again, so she ordered 150 looks from the last collection.
Mark Rothko No. 10, 1958. Mark Rothko No. 10, 1958.
King Meisel and heir Prince Sprouse. Two men who s King Meisel and heir Prince Sprouse. Two men who shaped 21st Century vision. Today there is no end in site— thank God— for Steven Meisel’s visions becoming reality. He keeps certain of us on track and obliterates the mundane.
“God Is In The Details”, please try this in fo “God Is In The Details”, please try this in for size. A solid bronze Roman Amphora.
The biomorphic curve of the elegant Ormolu mounted The biomorphic curve of the elegant Ormolu mounted 18th Century Chinese Ducks in Benjamin Steinitz’ mantel at home. Just imagine sitting quietly in meditation, alone, with them in front of you. You could probably even hear them.
The perfection of Mr. Rick Owens’ Pink Leather H The perfection of Mr. Rick Owens’ Pink Leather High Top Sneakers. Their history is based on Master Andre Courreges meets wrestler meets Tibetan Folklore. Bravo Rick!
When I first discovered Cy Twombly I was deeply dr When I first discovered Cy Twombly I was deeply drawn to the work, but at the same time I felt disturbed. How can there lines, this scribble, the odd script going off in angles, the pastel floating drips and dabs intersecting lines and collage like boxes...... be related to his titles all based in the antique lore of Sacred Greece and Rome and Mesopotamia..... I was frightened, I was almost insulted that we were being deceived. ........ AND then I began studying. Till this day I have every book written, every catalogue, and have studied he and his work within the period that he emerged and forged ahead with his own direction. I have become a disciple. I use him and his work to get inside of mine, both fashion and fine art. He is a “walk in” who came to this plane to prepare those of us who need to see and hear the higher message.
Jimmy needed to tell everyone how thrilled he is, Jimmy needed to tell everyone how thrilled he is, and how he visits the GENIUS- VISIONARY, Dr. David Colbert for facial attention!!!! Also, he is flattered that hat he resembles his Fu Dog.
Jimmy has discovered pools this summer. He loves h Jimmy has discovered pools this summer. He loves having a bath and a day of beauty surrounded by is ducks, Tang Dynasty Stone Fu Dog, Japanese Maples to cool him, and his favorite- Mongiardinoesque Olive Tree.
Totally high today..... awaiting the Benjamin Stei Totally high today..... awaiting the Benjamin Steinitz auction at Sotheby’s.... count down!!! Cannot handle the tsunami that’s coming. Here a XIX th century chair with gold leafed sea horses! This auction is going to be Pauline de Rothschild on a Major Phase of Steroids!!!
I know from a close friend of the Baroness that wh I know from a close friend of the Baroness that when not used for conversation, she enjoyed her museum quality chairs to be place in static space so that the Negative Space around them becomes equally important. Take that in.... also, when she would travel, she would tie silk gros grain ribbons across the chair from arm to arm so that no member of staff could sit in the precious PRELLE silk velvet. Personally, I cannot understand this color blue. Notice the Rare, non- functioning Russian Tula Metal clock in the corner.
Mark Rothko PINK ON PINK. 1953. When he was begi Mark Rothko PINK ON PINK. 1953. When he was beginning to see through time and space. This is my favorite.
Mme. Gres. Claret and brown in Bodin Joueaux silk Mme. Gres. Claret and brown in Bodin Joueaux silk velvet. Utter simplicity, majestic arrival. Shape and the underlining mastery of timelessness.
Secluded in a very odd section of Paris, next to a Secluded in a very odd section of Paris, next to a cemetery, the Baroness Pauline de Rothschild lived in her small apartment. Perhaps only five rooms. Here in one section of the Chinoiserie drawing rooms are rare and “useful” for her eye. The walls are upholstered in 18th Century silk Chinoiserie panels, a low straw tray with sterling silver legs and rim. A few of very rare Chinese Kangxi Porcelain stand at attention holding one wild yet elegant and passionate Iris. I show you this, and have written about the room and Pauline before, because I look at it every day of my life since I discovered She and it in 1978. It’s about a way of thinking, a faith.
Everyday of my life I bow my head and thank this e Everyday of my life I bow my head and thank this extraordinary woman for coming into my life in 1995. Marjorie, Mrs. Max Fisher, who had advised presidents.... I saw and heard it with my ears and eyes.... and Max was advised by this incredible earthquake at 5’5” called Marjorie. She was.... in an understatement, on another plane spiritually, and she explained and taught us how to go high in meditation to meet and take in from the “Men in White Robes”.... I once did a painting and then screened it in gazaar for a Spring Collection to show The Men in White Robes.... prophets helping us to God clarity. Marjorie was so plugged in that Max nicked named her: “The Big Kahuna” ! We all loved this. She was a patron to me, a best friend, a psychic, and a psychoanalyst to ne. She saw inside of me and knew who I was and had been and would be. She left us a shirt time ago, but she shifted the planet through all who knew her.... not a day goes by that I do not talk and thank her for being in my life to show me a higher direction. Sometimes I have a difficult time grasping that she is not here.... so that I don’t leave you in a melancholy note.... one fall season I was showing an especially channeled collection - and Marjorie could not fly in for the show.... I came down with the worst flu, but told her that she had it be there because I was introducing some really special new techniques . I was so sick with flu and fever that I have no idea of how I came through the fittings. Vivian, Rosina and Marjorie made arrangements that in seconds after the show at the tents, Marjorie Jr. And I would be quickly whisked to Teterbourgh Airport in Marjorie’s private plane to her compound in Palm Beach. When we arrived I was totally sick. I went into my guest house bedroom and slept. In the morning, I intercommed Marjorie to tell her I needed to sleep, but would come over to the main house for lunch and let’s have Bloodies.... AND I have a video of the collection presented last night.... ooohhh, forgetting you tell you that she usually ordered the entire collection for she and her daughters, Marjorie, Julie, Mary, Jane, and Lauren. Oh Great!!!! Keys have lunch,.... where and when I was
The Infanta Elena de Bourbon of Spain. She is comp The Infanta Elena de Bourbon of Spain. She is compartmentalized in my brain for decades. For me she represents the history, the majesty, the severity of Spanish royalty as seen through the eyes of Velazquez, court portrait painter from the Court of King Philip XIV. Women see in their lace, taffeta, faille, satin, velvet.... and of course the sacred Black Lace Mantilla.... a symbol of enormous strength and solemn dignity. In my career every time I made a dress of certain majestic proportions, cut in a biomorphic manner and made inside with even more thought than outside, they have been called... “The INFANTAS” The Tabernacle Infanta, The Stingray Infanta, The Inquisition Infanta, The Frances Bacon Infanta, The Imperial Infanta, The Horsehair and Ostrich Infanta, The Ripple Effect Infanta, The Cy Twombly Infanta, The Elsa Infanta, The Biomorphic Infanta, The Jumpsuit Infanta, The Pauline Infanta...... and many more.
Mantilla, crystal clear- pink embroidered coat wit Mantilla, crystal clear- pink embroidered coat with Keshia mounted collar, over Pink, not light pink silk crepe sheath. The coat is belted low and loose for a relaxed effect. The wonders of Balenciaga.
Years ago Mrs. Susan Gutfreund recreated my home.. Years ago Mrs. Susan Gutfreund recreated my home.... I find it hard to leave, because it is a constant source of calm, inspiration, and spiritual reconciliation. Thank you Susan!
I was smiling from ear to ear yesterday while look I was smiling from ear to ear yesterday while looking at the thirty looks from the F/W 2021 Chanel Haute Couture Collection. I was overjoyed and moved by the CONTROL... the beauty, the technique, the fit that can only be achieved in Couture. I am proud that this is conceived, exists, and within this short time frame the world’s greatest ateliers make this. Each piece is it’s own poetic story. The tweeds, which are not woven at all, but embroidered to look like tweed, the tailleur in black boucle shown with white hose, the ease of bias flou, the impossible fitting of shoulders and arms and armholes—— Mademoiselle is looking down with consummate pride. The NAVY!!!! Faille, taffeta, chiffon, the proportions.... This is Couture. This look is my favorite.... I think because it references Chanel, Gres, Balenciaga. The fit... the navy taffeta caressing the body, and the full on majesty of those Imperial Court sleeves.... probably about the most seductive gown that I have ever seen. If any of my clients that order Chanel are reading this, order it in the navy with matching navy wool pants beneath.... narrow, not taffeta because taffeta pants are always a mess in the crotch. Thus, you can wear it as a gown or as a coat. Also, it will make a strong dinner dress.... and don’t expect it to be less expensive, it’s already into six figures. Lastly I have to mention the dyed, Punk hair created by the hair stylist, Odile. I have known her for many years and she worked on hair concepts for many of my collections. She first created this for, I think, F/W 1999 Collection..... every head spiked and dyed... incredible. The eye makeup was clean, with only a thumb pull in the outside of the eye in red... except Naomi and Alec Wek who had silver. Ok, enough.... I am simply so proud to be involved in this metier!
..... one year.... oracles in the Ritz Garden befo ..... one year.... oracles in the Ritz Garden before the presentation. The greatest designers of our generation whom I honor: Josephus Thimister, who took his life this year, and his absence from this plane is significantly deep. He made me a coat from his last couture collection in petrol green felt, kakhi, boiled wool lined in bright blood red long hair Mongolian lamb. It is all based on Russian soldiers coming home from war in tatters and pieced together stained in blood. VERY Joseph Beuys( adore). Please listen to this****to show that the coat was indeed a significant example of couture, it Was Not seen with an even stitch to hold the seams together. There are areas where the stitches are far spaced..... and close spaced..... loose..... and then tight. You see what he was suggesting as if in a couture poem, were the raw, rough freezing hand stitches that a soldier had to make to keep his coat together.... takes your breathe away. Next to Josephus is the pure enlightenment known as Marc Audibet.... the man who relaxed world fashion, introduced revolutionary knits to our vocal art, designed Jenny, took over and designed brilliance for the house of Mme. Gres, Revolutionized Prada, and gave Mrs. Prada her template of eccentric simplicity for all time, and, of course his name collections under Marc Audibet, which our beloved Mr. Bill Cunningham compared to the work of Vionet, Gres, and Balenciaga. With them is the extraordinary-author and social observer, Dianne Pernet.
The day after the presentation, a message arrived The day after the presentation, a message arrived .... my adoration for this human being has no bound.
....and, a bride.... ivory double faced wool/ silk ....and, a bride.... ivory double faced wool/ silk with small covered buttons coming from the front armhole unbuttoning the train panel over the side panels.
My Angles, Anna and Anastasia in the RITZ garden l My Angles, Anna and Anastasia in the RITZ garden last summer.
One year ago this week, we were in Paris presentin One year ago this week, we were in Paris presenting the Fall/Winter Couture. It was my return after twelve years. Much had happened, and I worked day by day, with the deep belief from a woman whom I conceptualize as a creative and humanitarian genius, Elsa Peretti. In one sentence she gave me the chills, as if hearing from an Oracle....”Ralph, you must return, the world needs this beauty.” It was, once again a profound moment of pride, humility, and the reconciliation of all behind me. With my incredible team lead by Nicolas Caito, we arrived here in the second floor of the Ritz and began working.
The most extraordinary and clarifying collection f The most extraordinary and clarifying collection from P R A D A. ever, Fall / Winter 1997. The Utter Essence.... Mrs. Prada giving a religious Balenciaga moment, the clothes in Black, Navy double faced cashmere, touches of gray flannel....BUT THE FIT..... being fitted but allowing the just enough passage of air between the cloth and the body... this Ease is of the utmost calculation. I remember these day clothes recalibration my mind..... such elegance, severity, yet such beauty and raw sexuality.... and, just in case you did not catch your breath yet... I give you the ultimate models: McMenneny, Tennant, Hume.... stop time. @vasily_rzd @redromanrose @rickyandray @anthony.stropoli @ocram3160 @jacekratkowski @jayglennnyc @paulpodlucky @tatianasorokko @dfmalabaster @ram
One season, this divine woman, Ms. Kirsten Owens c One season, this divine woman, Ms. Kirsten Owens could not adjust her schedule to model in the show, due to her obligations to her children. I have already told you that she is the most extraordinary model/ woman. She carries both an intensity and sensitivity that helps define your work and allows the work to “float “ on the lightness of this highly rare individual being. In my four decades, I have never had a model send me a fax, but she did, written upward across the page. She explained, she apologized, she sent compliments that allowed me pride, and she said that she had to get back to her kitchen because she was making apple pies........ Now, this is style.... the ability, the couture conversation, and an apple pie! X. R. @kirsten.owen @rickyandray @redromanrose @elsaperettiofficial @margaretrussell @vasily_rzd @jacekratkowski @paulpodlucky @tatianasorokko
The volume speaks a heavy Satin Duchess or Faille, The volume speaks a heavy Satin Duchess or Faille, but it is all controlled by the narrow, Bias arm and my obsession in making clothes for 40 years.... the Gusset. It is a four sided kissing triangle that is fitted inside the armpit. Sometimes it has a seam across, which has no purpose except easier construction manipulation. The Gusset allows the arm to have more range of motion in lifting the arm, and maintains a sleek view to the shoulder- arm- back area. You are able to “clean” the he excess fabric that you have if you were just making a Dolman or Kimono. I have made hundreds of designs using Gussets, and every fabric. Here a sketch with enormous gusto by the master, Joe Eula.
The quiet fireworks of Cy Twombly...... happy Four The quiet fireworks of Cy Twombly...... happy Fourth of July!
The Master, Joe Eula.... quickly defines the mirac The Master, Joe Eula.... quickly defines the miraculous work of bias chiffon, fluting, velvet, and jersey of Mme. Gres. She was a Walk-in who came to this plane to show us the way.... and she did.
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